IMO lighting is the easiest part of mapping. Less is more is my motto, use less lights but use them effectively. Cast big shadows, make the light at the source nice and bright for contrast and don't over saturate the lighting to make things washed out.
Yeah
#10701 posted by Drew on 2014/03/21 00:50:22
not feeling it Tronyn. Have to agree it is pretty OTT. minimalism isn't really your thing though...
80's Disco!
#10702 posted by ijed on 2014/03/21 00:52:31
Or an N64 game...
Red should be bright red but any other colours should be closer to white, I use paint's colour picker to set values that play nice with quake's palette.
In the shot you've got a lot going on too close - you're going from red to blue and where they mix you get a muddy purple / pink that isn't doing the brushwork any favors.
Try an only ents where the blue is 192 192 255 and the red ones have a wait of 1.5 or 2.
Those are just hunches, I'm not great at lighting either. No doubt some of the masters here can give better advice.
Oh, and avoid using delay unless you want it for a specific special effect - it's like hotsauce, useful on the right meal, but you can't drink it on its own.
And if you like your hot sauce, you'll know there's a right time for the green or red, the matured, the smoked, the pastes and the smoked. Those being parralells for delay 1-5...
Yeah, I'm eating while typing this.
Double Rainbow!
#10703 posted by DaZ on 2014/03/21 00:57:09
Woah there!
There's just too many colours. I would remove all the different colours being emitted by the various stain glass windows. Change all the blue ceiling / floor lights back to white and just keep the orange candle light and uncommon red wall lamps.
Or even better, remove most of the candles and use normal light, and have the candles+orange light be a nice contrast. You could use the candles to draw the players' eyes to things.
Colours
#10704 posted by Preach on 2014/03/21 01:10:17
I'm gonna dissent a bit from what to change, although I agree with the general feeling it might be too much. I'd say lose the bright red light in the back, it's too distracting and has unfortunate 90's coloured light overdose connotations.
I'd also replace the dim blue spotlights. I can see where you're going with blue tones in the shadows and warm tones in the brighter light, but it's easier to do that with a slight blue tint to unsourced light and warm colours in the spotlights. Blue sourced light seems a bit odd.
Keep the orange candles, everyone seems to like them. I also like the blended colour effect coming from the downwards vertical spotlights, so keep that up. I guess there's something with stained glass going on from the right, but it's hard to judge if that's working from the angle of this shot.
#10705 posted by necros on 2014/03/21 01:18:55
fuck that, make them more saturated!
and make the flash too!!
on a serious note, i find it doesn't matter what colour you pick as long as there's sort of one main colour of a room. then you can use a colour wheel to pick the second colour if you really have a hard time with just eyeballing it.
This Could Be Useful;
#10706 posted by ijed on 2014/03/21 01:43:17
http://www.rapidtables.com/web/color/RGB_Color.htm
Also, only make them flash if you can do it in time to the masic and maybe use some rotatings with alpha to make strobe laser effects.
+ white fog.
Color Scheme
#10707 posted by Featheon on 2014/03/21 01:44:39
Maybe you could stick to exactly two colors that could be mediated by white lights. Representations of dusk usually combine a light blue and tan, for example.
#10708 posted by Lunaran on 2014/03/21 05:12:01
Valve used to have a great article about use of color in Nova Prospekt. Can't find it now. There is this:
https://developer.valvesoftware.com/wiki/Color_Theory_in_Level_Design
Bucking The Trend Here...
#10709 posted by quaketree on 2014/03/21 09:28:40
I think that IF (and it's a kinda big if) you are going for a more surrealistic look then it has possibilities.
If you're going for realism then just no. That lighting is totally wrong.
Think American McGee's Alice with odd floating bits for no reason other than to have them be odd floating bits (which may or may not be important to getting through the level). Have some fun with it and get a bit outside of the box with what you do. Be creative and people will respect you for that.
That being said...
Colored lights are very tricky, less is more in almost every case and if you do use it it has to be consistent across the entire level/episode (unless you use it to indicate a secret or some other important element). Look around the real world and there are very few instances where the lighting isn't white or close to it. Colored lights are used to attract attention but not for task lights or for everyday living (unless you live everyday in a LSD induced fog).
Tronyn.
#10710 posted by Shambler on 2014/03/21 10:25:38
Just NO. For the reasons above.
#10711 posted by [Kona] on 2014/03/21 11:35:12
I don't think the copy/pasting of pillars and details is working that well either?
Featheon
#10712 posted by Spirit on 2014/03/21 11:59:59
I like it! See some comments inside the demos. https://www.quaddicted.com/files/temp/dom-beta-spirit.7z
Scale of the table felt off, that room needs detail too. Skill level seemed high normal or hard. Maybe have one knight patrol the big room?
Disco Lighting
#10713 posted by Mike Woodham on 2014/03/21 12:41:46
I never realised how different things looked on different monitors.
On my normal screen it looks pretty bad because the colours come out saturated and therefore very artificial. However, when I looked at on another monitor with both contrast and brightness set high (and I mean way over the top) I thought it looked great because there were no saturated colours but the colour was still visible.
(do I remember someone releasing a discoQuake map where Ogres were dancing? I'm sure some collaboration would result in something er... different)
Tronyn
#10714 posted by nitin on 2014/03/21 13:31:29
what? I cant believe you even asked for an opinion on that :)
Darn
#10715 posted by Featheon on 2014/03/21 13:40:52
You missed the secret passage in the fireplace, spirit.
Heh
#10716 posted by Tronyn on 2014/03/21 17:58:53
thanks guys
it was definitely very Quake2 (I had the blue lights from Warehouse in mind).
I'll post a subtler/modified version later.
To Be Honest
#10717 posted by Spiney on 2014/03/21 23:48:53
I quite like the way some of the lights mix into different hues, it just clashes with the Quake aesthetic (it does look very 1997, haha).
I think you should keep experimenting a bit more, never know what you might come up with.
Some 2-Color Schemes
#10718 posted by Featheon on 2014/03/22 04:57:42
Sorry I Don't Know How To Edit:
#10719 posted by Featheon on 2014/03/22 05:04:07
#10720 posted by Spiney on 2014/03/22 11:28:21
Also, if you wanna switch it up you can use warm ambient and cold direct light. Mappers rarely take that approach.
#10721 posted by necros on 2014/03/22 16:19:30
my favourite thing which is also really easy to do is to set sunlight/minlight colours.
Bright yellow sunlight + low (10-30) dark blue minlight can bring almost any outdoor scene to life.
Another interesting combo is sikly yellow sunlight + vibrant green (but 10-30 intensity) minlight.
I thought minlight was the work of satan??
5th
#10723 posted by mfx on 2014/03/22 21:12:31
You�re getting it wrong, global minlight is still evil.
What necros meant is faking global illumination based on various additive lights with delay 5 and pretty small values (as above stated 10-30 produces best looking results). Those lights are called minlights from now on.
When compiling with tyrlight 0.14 use -addmin switch.
And -soft1 -extra 4.
Have fun!
Next time rtfay!
#10724 posted by necros on 2014/03/22 23:42:53
well no, i do mean normal minlight. but 10-30 is very dark anyway. just enough to give the blue colour and it's dark enough that you can still get nice shadows.
it's only when your global minlight starts going over 50 or something that it starts looking bad because it's just too bright and all your shadows disappear.
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